Відео

What if I want the vacuum tube?

Great video! Thanks for the help! I laughed a little too hard at the hammer taped to a broomstick.

Fun video! Shame you didn't have any experience with the STM as it would be nice to just swap firmware. I find the STMs to be more agreable to work with than the AVRs (which I used to use a lot). I am actually in the process of doing so right now on a USB-RELAY04 board. (You have the 08 version with identical hw except for addition of power plug.) The 04 I have do have an extra position for a pin header and it has debug interface, reset and power/ground which is very useful for me right now. Chip was protected but easily erased. I too was really annoyed by the single byte protocol and the lack of any way of reading back state. Also, I would like the card to go to default of host/app is disconnected as I wanted to use these boards in a testing environment where different tests may be run by remote triggering. I don't get your inversion mask though, it adds complexity and less security. I think I will add a Set and a Reset command though so one can easily turn on or off any relay without affecting the rest in addition to a Relay command to set all relays to match state with parameter.

Good idea! Thanks

I got my DP832 second hand for $150, updated the software to 832A, so I think I'll stick with this... I also have a couple of HM310s... which I will keep to use in tandem.

Oh jesus I spent hours fighting with Alien to get the goddamn RPM into a DEB form. Obviously required some stabbing, like installing under /opt instead of /usr/local etc. Should have seen this first.

curious if there is a way to callibrate the korad unit to improve the accuracy. 1% or lower would be more than enough for what it costs.

The Rigol has several hidden design flaws. Like CH2 and 3 and not truly independent, and the type of design flaw pattern they make shows a tendency to cut corners and sweep bad design with dodgy practices. Such as, wasting 5 Watts of power in a regulator pass device to lower voltage from the transformer for the digital section without sourcing a transformer with lower voltage tap. I would not buy equipment from a company with that kind of dodgy philosophy, there will always be another design flaw waiting to manifest itself maybe out of warranty.

Both crappy options, but the Korad at least has no hidden shortcomings that the rigol has see EEVBLOG review.

Great video, never saw a switch with a display before. Very cool. Must be early 90s.

These are some great tipps! Thanks a lot and have a very nice christmas ;-)

How to replace DHBW coding lecture in 30 min

Hallöchen Herr Bauer! Fand dieses Video sehr aufschlussreich. Es macht mir tatsächlich jetzt noch mehr Spaß meinen Code umzugestalten! Sie haben in dem Video - nicht wie andere auf UA-cam - kurz und informativ das Thema mit sinnvollen Beispielen belegt und ausprobiert. Finde das Video Hammer und könnte Studierende in den ersten Semestern deutlich weiterhelfen als die ein oder andere Vorlesung.

Hagan todas las pruebas que quieran. Yo me compre una Korad 3005 y va de maravillas. Hace justo lo que necesito. Alimenta mis circuitos, limita la corriente, no genera picos de arranque inportantes, etc. Una maravilla. Lo unico que me gustaría cambiar es el panel numerico de amperios a color verde.

can it kill you? I dismantled more than 15 crt tube when I was yound, to get component for my project, I wasn't using any protection and touching everything, did I escape death? lol

please more videos

Thank youu my SIM card had fallen inside l didn’t know what to do

Sigh. I managed to get the discharging done without issues, but I'm having difficulty getting the anode cap to come off. I'm terrified of breaking it. And of course you just cut straight to it being off. Thanks for nothing.

Buzzer can be disabled...no need to remove.

What year did microwaves start marking copper coated ali wires in the large transformer?

You should cover that electrolytic capacitor there that's got The Scorch marks on it

I have both, always use the Rigol, unless I need the power of the Korad (which is rare).

I heard, "Keep one hand behind your back" just in case. You don't want voltage to go through your chest.

The safest way to vent a picture tube is to use a pair of tongue and groove pliers on the socket tip of the neck where the CRT board plugs in with a quick squeeze and twist. Doing this not only vents the tube but prevents possible implosion of the CRT. Using a hammer is much more risky.

Hi... awesome mod! Is there a way to change the unused M5 LED to control the Lock function? So, when the keys are locked, the LED is turned on. Thanks.

Может стоило просто поискать датчик тока в цепи вентилятора?

I want to turn an old microwave into a turn table. If I disconnect the magnerton and the fan, will that work? (worried about the capacitor. Should I leave that connected?)

Why? 80s and 90s crt tvs are increasingly rare, you could've given it away to someone

Thats so dangerous. He used needle nose pliers first...

Can the 3 independent Korads be switched in series or in parallel? Their manuals dont't say anything about that.

wow ! safest way is to use a small screwdriver and tap the HT hole gently to crack it and listen. jeez the neck !!!

You negated any attempt at safety by using metal pliers in your other hand to lift the anode cup.

There is a safer way to vent the CRT! Lay face down on firm surface. Wrap carpet over the back of the CRT, leaving a small hole st the socket. Strike the CRT "tipoff" in the center of the socket until you hear hissing sound. Wait until the hissing stops. If a crack propagates into the funnel of the CRT, flying glass can travel over 30 feet! The carpet cover prevents this & the small targeted hit makes the chance of this happening. If you scratch the glass around the neck first, that "break" occurs much cleaner. Wrap rag over the neck first, then strike with hammer. The "tunnel" in the electron guns are electrostatic "lenses" to focus the beams. The pod on the long arm is the "getter" (has chamicals to absorb gasses, to maintain the high vacuum over the life of the tube). The wire can be unwound from the deflection coils (if it is not potted). You need to pull out the shadow mask from the CRT. Sit the TV set face up (on boards so you can access it from below). Strike glass first at the neck to start glass breaking, then strike further up to break glass almost up to the front face. The pieces will fall away (have old tarp to catch the broken glass). Lift set off & invert to face-down. You should be able to remove shadow mask by prying loose 3 or 4 arms around the edges. Lift out.

At 10:38, is the orange stuff copper?

The glass electron tube is beautifully phallic. Not my thing, but it's an aesthetically neat sculpture. I was hoping to preserve it. Chisel the screen off, and take out the metal. I imagine that makes it so damn heavy! Am I seriously risking glass injury and mercury poisoning?

How I disassembled these as an adolescent is beyond my adult comprehension I'm grateful to be alive 😂

Motor? Always assumed there was a clock spring.

As an electronics engineer, I was deeply disturbed by your demonstration. Using those pointy pliers to lift the anode insulator is just inviting a spark to leap across. You don't have to be grounded to get a shock. You are the other plate of a capacitor. Holding the screwdriver in the other hand breaks the one-hand-in-the-pocket rule. Just use the screw driver blade to gently get under the insulator. I think using a screwdriver might work most of the time, but if the alligator clips fall off or don't have a good contact, that screwdriver handle may not protect you from the 1000s of volts.

Bro you are not showing probably where you connecting other side ?.

did this short hurt any of your other components

Absolutely essential to be safe. These tubes can hold a charge for a very long time unplugged from the power source. Even outside in the weather for many days it can still bite you. Great video!!!

Thank you for evaluating our products!

Whats component at 7:27 ?

If you ever run into the problem that the adjuster knob dances its values all over the place when you try to increase just a tenth of a volt: you need to solder two 0.1uF ceramic caps in series on the 3 pins of the knob to add some filtering (that is required according to spec) and that will solve the problem for like 95%..

I wonder how many people died watching this or prevented death by seeing this

nice video

Amusing

Cool!!

It’s effective to use a big solder ball to transfer the heat to all of the pins that is swamped in it. Otherwise, without using a different device such as a hot air gun, it’s impossible to melt the solder on more than two or three pins.

I bought LC100A recently, have found that L readings seemed accurate, but not the C reading. On Hi.C my caps were off (smaller) by 3 to 5%, and on regular.C my cap readings were off by about 25%. I wonder if the built-in inductor in my copy is off, and maybe I could add a few windings to correct/compensate the cap readings.